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Rice and stewed meat onigiri balls,
topped with crispy rice and chickpeas.
Najafi Qeema in reality;
Is the national dish of Najaf, generously served to visitors during the Holy months of Muharram and Safar, to relive the tumultuous historical moments of Al-Hussein and Karbala. It is slow-cooked in cauldrons on woodfire, from dawn to sunset or sunset to dawn, and is generously shared.
Jehan wanted to present an ancient traditional Mesopotamian recipe, which in her research, she couldn’t find across cookbooks written about Iraqi food. When she didn’t find it in the Al Baghdad Cookery cookbook held in Nahla’s library, she felt a secret sense of pride and rejoice. It is indeed a Najafi specialty, and a homecoming dish for her.
Although the dish is loaded with religious undertones, she retells the story of this dish through a matriarchal lens, from the hearts and hands of mothers and grandmothers.
In Iraq, it is the men who are seen cooking large pots on the street, whereas the women gather at home to cook, but ahead of that process, their children are sung to sleep with a lullaby.
This soothing lullaby voice is juxtaposed with the sound of a copper pestle and mortar crushing spices, another sound that has been overridden by the use of electrical kitchen devices.
Jehan slowly and lovingly rolls these ‘onigiri’ -like rice and meat sauce balls, resisting time and the invasion of fast food.
The mash of flesh, tears & votives.
You shall not wait thirty-five years for the recipe. In the meantime, wash and soak one kilo of chickpeas over night or at least for eight hours.
Good morning, while visiting the butcher, don’t forget to remind him:
For this dish, there is a way of slicing the beef, how the blade slides along muscle fibers & does not slash through.
Choose 750 grams fresh round or chuck beef.
Cut
Then, before plastic days, meat was gently wrapped in a cloth, brown paper or a newspaper. The latter would leave some ink, printed words on the flesh, some did not wash off.
I wonder where those words would nestle, once eaten & digested, streaming through our blood. On the tip of our tongues? Furrows of our brains, or endocardium of our hearts.
If meat was wrapped in poetry, would we become less violent and more romantic? Would we practice more empathy?
This dish takes so much time, energy, and muscle to make. It is originally cooked in large cauldrons, upon burning wood,
Amongst vows & burning candles
Enveloped with sad stories & chants,
Cooked slowly, oh so slowly
And meant for sharing
Served at banquets, celebrations & memorials
This is the signature dish of my hometown, the definition of ambrosial, I feel so proud.
Protein packed, are you ready?
Flex & stretch your muscles…
Peel around six large onions, red or red & white, keep the skins for dying your projects.
Place the soaked chickpeas with their water in a steam pot, take one of the onions, quarter it, add the full piece of beef, a cinnamon stick, and a half a table spoon each of turmeric & cumin, 2-3 dried Numi Basras, make sure everything is covered with just enough water.
A steam pot is not for the faint-hearted, it needs to be managed carefully & attended to, never leave it on a high temperature stove, or it will explode! Never fill it more than half, or maximum two-thirds full. As soon as the water boils, lower the temperature.
Let them steam together at least 90 minutes, up to two hours.
Switch off, remove from heat, let some steam escape before you unclasp the lid, carefully, not to get scalded. Remove the cinnamon stick & numis.
Please do not use any food processers, nor blending handles, otherwise your whole trip to the butcher would go in vain.
With a wooden hand masher, or if you are gentle enough not to break a clean glass bottle, start mashing. Up & down, circular movements, slowly, rapidly, feeling the gravity of earth, as if plowing the soil of the meadow, until you get a yellow mush & the fibers start to disintegrate into a thick paste.
Dice the remaining onions, sauté in a pan with oil until golden, pour everything over the chickpea-beef mash. Mix, mash, and mix.
In a coffee/spice blender or with a pestle & mortar, finely grind together spices of: 10 cardamoms, 5 clovers, half a nutmeg, half a cinnamon stick, a pinch of saffron, a pinch of whole black pepper, a pinch of red chili.
Add to Qeema, stir in 750 grams of tomato puree. Season with salt, bring to boil on a low heat for another 30 minutes (covered but with no pressure), stirring from time to time, so the base does not burn.
It should turn orange in colour by now.
Serve with white Amber or Basmati rice.
Bil3afiya.
You are now nourished spiritually & physically.
2-5-2023
لن تنتظر خمس وثلاثين عاماً من اجل الوصفة. في هذه الأثناء، اغسل وانقع كيلو من الحمص بين عشية وضحاها¸ او على الأقل لثماني ساعات.
صباح الخير، عندما تزور القصاب، لا تنسى تذكيره:
لهذا الطبق بالذات، هناك طريقة لقطع لحم شرح العجل، كيف تنزلق شفرة السكين مع اتجاه الياف العضل ولا تقطع خلاله.
اختر 750 غرام من لحم شرح كتف او فخذ العجل.
اقطع
حينذاك وقبل أيام البلاستيك، كان اللحم يلف برفق بقطعة قماش، ورق اسمر، او جريدة، الأخيرة تترك انطباع حبر كلمات على اللحم، بعضها لا يزول عند الغسل.
أتساءل اين تعشعش تلك الكلمات بعد ان تؤكل، وتهضم، وتسري خلال دمنا؟ هل على أطراف السنتنا، ام تلافيف مخنا، او شغاف قلوبنا؟
ان كان اللحم يلف بالشعر، هل سنصبح اقل عدوانية وأكثر رومانسية؟ هل سنصير أكثر تعاطفاً؟
هذا الطبق يتطلب الكثير من الوقت والطاقة والعضل لصناعته. كان يطبخ أصلاً في قدور عظيمة، فوق حطب ملتهب،
بين النذور والشموع المشتعلة
محاط بقصص حزينة واناشيد
يطبخ ببطء شديد، شديد جداً
ومعني للمشاركة
يقدم في الولائم، الاحتفالات والوفيات
هذا طبق الإمضاء من مدينتي، وتعريف المذاق الأسطوري، اشعر بالفخر.
ملؤه البروتين، هل انتَ مستعد؟
اثني وشدَ عضلاتك...
قشر حوالي ست بصلات كبيرة، حمراء او حمراء وبيضاء، احتفظ بالقشور لصباغة مشاريعك.
ضع الحمص المنقوع مع مائه في قدر ضغط، خذ إحدى البصلات، اقسمها أرباعاً، أضف كامل الشرحة، عود من القرفة، ونصف ملعقة من كلاً من الكركم والكمون المطحون, 2-3 حبات نومي بصرة، وغطهم جميعاً بماءٍ كافٍ.
قدر الضغط ليس لذوي القلب الضعيف، يجب مداراته باهتمام ومراقبته، ابداً لا تتركه على نار موقد عالية، سينفجر! ولا تملؤه أكثر من النصف او الثلثين كأقصى حد. سرعان ما يغلي الماء، خفف درجة الحرارة.
اتركهم يطبخون بالبخار لمدة 90 دقيقة على الأقل وحتى ساعتين.
اطفيْ، ارفع القدر من الحرارة، اترك بعض البخار يتسرب، قبل ان تفتح الغطاء برفق لئلا تحترق. ازل عود القرفة والنوميات
رجاء عدم استخدام محضرات الطعام او أذرع الخلاطات وإلا ستكون رحلتك الى القصاب من دون جدوى.
مع هراسة طعام يدوية خشبية، او ان كنت رقيقاً كفاية لتهرس بقنينة زجاجية نظيفة، دون ان تكسرها: ابدأ بالهرس من الأعلى للأسفل، وبحركات دائرية، ببطيء وتسارع، مستشعراً جاذبية الأرض، كأنك تحرث تراب المرعى، حتى تحصل على هريس أصفر اللون، وتتفكك الألياف في قوام سميك.
افرم البصلات المتبقية، قلبها في مقلاة بها زيت حتى تصبح ذهبية، صب كل ما في المقلاة على هريس العجل والحمص، اخلط، اهرس وامزج.
في طاحونة القهوة او البهارات، او بمدق (هاون)
اطحن ناعماً كل من البهارات التالية مع بعض:
10 حبات هيل, 5 حبات قرنفل، نصف جوزة طيب، نصف عود دارسين، رشة زعفران، رشة فلفل اسود كامل، رشة فلفل حار.
اضفهم الى القيمة، و750 غرام من معجون الطماطم، أضف الملح واطبخ على نار هادئة لنصف ساعة أخرى (مغطاة ولكن بدون ضغط)، حرِك من وقت الى آخر حتى لا يحترق القاع.
من المفروض ان يصير برتقالي اللون الآن.
قدمها مع رز عنبر او بسمتي ابيض.
بالعافية
لقد تم تغذيتك روحياً وجسدياً.
Qadoor Qeema, digital photograph, 2010.
1/9
Jehan Ali (born 1978, Iraq) is the bulb, the idea, with several concentric layers. Unravelling flavours.
A contemporary mixed- media artist and poet, at her kitchen, passionately art stirs: food and food for thought. She composes & renders with words & visuals, using paint, photography, and collage. She sculpts ceramics, plates from scratch and pulls threads.
She earned her BFA in Interior Design from the American University of Dubai (AUD) in 2001. Exhibited Internationally in New York with; Broadway, Amsterdam Whitney Fine Art Inc. At Tokyo, Paris & Madrids’ Contemporary Art Stations. In-flight, Onboart with Vueling Airlines. In Korea with 7th Geoje International Art Festival. In Switzerland with PAKS Gallery, ART BASEL 2022. Also, home locally in: Dubai, at Tashkeel, at House of Talents, The Walk. With Noon Art Gallery & Solo at World Art Dubai, Ahemedia’s Gallery, Rewilding the Kitchen, Fully Booked Dubai Art Book Fair, Alserkal Avenue and Kave, and Dubai Design District.
At Ras Al Khaimah Fine Arts Festival and Museum. & Abu Dhabi’s Rich List. Focal Point Sharjah, Thumbey University Hosptal, Ajman with Hyat Arts.
Member at Tashkeel participated in many creative workshops there. Also, at Sxill, Kalimat Publishing, Blank Canvas, and FabLab In5 at Dubai Design District.
Winner of Power of Creativity, Voices of Tomorrow & Faces of Peace Art Prizes. Contemporary Art Curator Magazine 2021/22.
Winner of the Premier Artist Prize 2024.. Contemporary Art Station.
Her book DELVE An Artful Book by Jehan Ali was released to the world in 2019.
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